The Traveling Taylors

It’s easy to get overwhelmed by the sheer size and detail of Angkor Wat—but some of the most fascinating parts of the temple are right at eye level. The bas reliefs, or stone carvings, that line its outer galleries tell epic stories of gods, demons, battles, and everyday Khmer life. We found ourselves completely captivated by the drama and detail carved into every surface. If you want to go beyond “just looking,” here’s a guide to the bas reliefs of Angkor Wat and how to read the stories written in stone.

What Are Bas Reliefs?

Bas relief is a technique where figures are sculpted slightly raised from a flat background. At Angkor Wat, this style is used to create long, continuous panels of narrative art. These carvings are incredibly detailed, stretching for hundreds of meters and depicting both religious myths and historical events.

There are eight main bas relief galleries at Angkor Wat, each with a unique theme. Walking through them is like reading an ancient graphic novel—one that spans gods, wars, and cosmic battles.

1. The Churning of the Ocean of Milk (East Gallery)

One of the most famous and dramatic panels, this scene shows gods (devas) and demons (asuras) using a serpent wrapped around Mount Mandara to churn the ocean and release the elixir of immortality.

Look for:

• Vishnu standing atop the mountain
• The serpent Vasuki being pulled by gods and demons
• Celestial dancers (apsaras) and sea creatures being churned into existence

This myth is central to both Hindu and Khmer cosmology, symbolizing the eternal struggle between good and evil—and it’s depicted with amazing movement and energy.

2. Battle of Kurukshetra (Northwest Gallery)

This panel tells the story from the Indian epic Mahabharata, where two royal families battle for control of a kingdom. It’s filled with soldiers, elephants, and warriors in motion.

Look for:

• Detailed military formations
• War chariots and cavalry
• Heroic central figures like Arjuna and Bhishma

This relief shows the Khmer Empire’s admiration for Indian mythology and their skill in blending art and storytelling.

3. Battle of Lanka (Southwest Gallery)

Based on the Ramayana, this panel shows the monkey god Hanuman and Prince Rama battling the demon king Ravana. It’s one of the most action-packed scenes at Angkor Wat.

Look for:

• Monkey warriors scaling mountains and fighting demons
• Ravana with multiple heads and arms
• Intricate jungle scenery carved into the background

This section bursts with movement and drama—it’s easy to lose yourself in the details.

4. Historical Procession of King Suryavarman II (South Gallery)

Unlike the mythological panels, this one is thought to show a real-life event: the Khmer king Suryavarman II (the builder of Angkor Wat) leading a royal procession.

Look for:

• The king seated with attendants and parasols
• Armies with weapons, elephants, and officials
• Scenes of judgment and punishment

It’s an incredible snapshot of court life, power, and order in the Khmer Empire.

Other Notable Panels

• Heaven and Hell (South Gallery): Shows scenes of judgment, with souls being rewarded or punished—a powerful reminder of karma and morality.
• Victory of Vishnu over the Asuras (North Gallery): A cosmic battle between gods and demons, full of symbolism.
• Victory of Krishna over Bana (North Gallery): A lesser-known but beautifully carved tale of divine conquest.
• Historical Battle Scenes: Several galleries blend myth and history, showing how the Khmer saw their rulers as both kings and gods.

Tips for Viewing the Bas Reliefs

• Go early or late: The galleries are shaded, but crowds gather fast—especially on the east side.
• Walk clockwise: This follows the traditional path used in Hindu temple worship (known as pradakshina).
• Use a guide or audio app: The stories are rich with detail, and a little context makes them come alive.
• Take your time: These carvings aren’t just decorations—they’re ancient storytelling at its finest.

Final Thoughts

The bas reliefs of Angkor Wat are more than stone—they’re stories, spirituality, and history etched by the hands of artisans over 900 years ago. Taking the time to explore them adds depth to your visit and connects you with the heart of the Khmer Empire.

Want to plan your full temple adventure? Check out our Cambodia Itinerary.