The Traveling Taylors

When we first arrived in Edinburgh Old Town, we fully expected a charming but overly crowded hotspot packed with souvenir shops and selfie sticks. But as we wandered deeper into the city’s cobbled lanes and crooked closes, we realized how much more there is to this historic district than meets the eye. Here’s what we discovered—and how you can make the most of your visit, beyond the obvious.

Is Edinburgh Old Town Worth Visiting?

Absolutely. Edinburgh Old Town is one of Europe’s most atmospheric neighborhoods. Yes, it’s popular with tourists, but for good reason. The preserved medieval architecture, sweeping views from castle to valley, and a palpable sense of history make it unforgettable. If you know how to explore it wisely, it doesn’t have to feel overrun.

What Parts of Edinburgh Old Town Feel Too Touristy?

Some spots in Edinburgh Old Town do lean into tourist trap territory:

1. The Royal Mile (midsection): While iconic, this stretch is thick with tartan shops, overpriced whisky, and gimmicky attractions.
2. Fringe-time crowds: In August, the area can feel like Times Square—exciting but chaotic.
3. Ghost tours galore: Not all are bad, but many follow the same routes with dramatics over depth.

Quick Tip: Visit popular sites early in the morning or late in the evening for a more relaxed experience.

What Surprised Us in a Good Way

Despite the tourist buzz, some parts of Edinburgh Old Town genuinely caught us off guard—in the best way:

• Quiet Closes: Step off the Royal Mile into small alleys like Dunbar’s Close Garden or Bakehouse Close, and you’ll find total serenity.
• The Real Mary King’s Close: Yes, it’s a ticketed tour—but it delivers fascinating, lesser-known stories from Edinburgh’s underground past.
• Grassmarket’s Story: More than just pubs and patios, this square was once a place of public executions and now tells a compelling local tale.

How to Avoid the Tourist Crowds in Edinburgh Old Town

Here’s how we found balance in a busy district:

• Go against the flow: Start at the Palace of Holyroodhouse and walk up the Royal Mile toward the Castle.
• Take side routes: Cockburn Street and Victoria Street are beautiful, but explore parallel alleys for fewer crowds and hidden gems.
• Eat local: Skip chains and try places like The Baked Potato Shop (vegetarian delight!) or Deacon’s House Café tucked in a 400-year-old building.

Is Edinburgh Old Town Authentic or Just a Facade?

This was our biggest question—and the answer surprised us. Beneath the tourist sheen, there’s genuine character here. Locals still live in the area, students fill the university buildings, and you can stumble on street performers reciting Burns next to a fishmonger cart.

Pro/Con Breakdown:

Pros	Cons
Rich history & dramatic scenery	Heavier foot traffic mid-day
Unique local shops & cafes	Some overpriced restaurants
Easy walking access to landmarks	Peak times feel crowded
Authentic stories if you look	Tourist traps on the main drag

Planning Your Visit to Edinburgh Old Town

If you want the best experience in Edinburgh Old Town, here’s what we recommend:

• 🕰 Best time to visit: May–June or September–October for thinner crowds and nice weather.
• 🚶‍♀️ Walking tips: Wear good shoes—the cobblestones are no joke.
• 📷 Photo ops: Calton Hill (for skyline views), Advocate’s Close, and St Giles Cathedral’s rooftop.

Looking for more Scotland travel ideas? Check out our complete guide to Isle of Skye road trips or our favorite day hikes in the Highlands!

Our Honest Take on Edinburgh Old Town

So, is Edinburgh Old Town too touristy? Only if you let it be. Beneath the surface of selfie spots and tartan tat lies a neighborhood that still pulses with soul. Go in with a little curiosity—and a few detours—and you’ll see why it’s still the heart of Scotland’s capital.